Quantification of low-content encapsulated active cosmetic ingredients in complex semi-solid formulations by means of attenuated total reflectance-infrared spectroscopy.

Attenuated total reflectance-infrared (ATR-IR) spectroscopy is a robust tool for molecular characterisation of matter. Applied to semi-solid formulations, it enables rapid and reliable data collection without pre-analytical requirements. Based on nano-encapsulated Omegalight®, a skin-lightening active cosmetic ingredient (ACI), incorporated in a hydrogel, it is first demonstrated that, despite the high water content and the chemical complexity of the samples (i.e. number of ingredients), the spectral features of the ACI can be detected and monitored. Secondly, with a total of 105 samples divided into a training set (n = 60) and an unknown set (n = 45) covering a 0.5% w/w-5% w/w concentration range, the study further investigates the quantitative performance of ATR-IR coupled with partial least squares regression (PLSR). Through a step-by-step approach in testing different cross-validation protocols, accuracy (root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSECV)) and linearity between the experimental and predicted concentrations (R2) of ATR-IR are consistently evaluated to be respectively 0.097% (w/w) and 0.995 with a lower LOD = 0.067% (w/w). Subsequently, further evaluation of the accuracy (relative error of the predicted concentration compared with the true value, expressed as %) of the analysis was undertaken with the 45 unknown samples that were defined as unknown and analysed by PLSR. The outcome of the analysis demonstrates the ruggedness and the consistency of the determination performed using the ATR-IR data. With an average relative error of 2.5% w/w and only 5 samples out of 45 blind samples exhibiting a relative error above the 5% threshold, high accuracy quantification of the nano-encapsulated ACI can be unambiguously achieved by means of the label-free and non-destructive technique of ATR-IR spectroscopy. Ultimately, the study demonstrates that the analytical capabilities of ATR-IR hold significant potential for applications in the cosmetics industry, and although the path remains long, the present study is one step further to support validation of the technique, albeit for the specific case of Omegalight®.

ATR-IR coupled to partial least squares regression (PLSR) for monitoring an encapsulated active molecule in complex semi-solid formulations.

Attenuated Total Reflectance-Infrared (ATR-IR) spectroscopy holds great promise for industrial applications as a quality control tool for complex galenic formulations. Although the technique is often promoted for the molecular information it delivers in a label free and cost effective fashion, other advantages can emerge compared to the gold standard analytical tools such as liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. The present study demonstrates how ATR-IR measurements enable accurate quantitative analysis of an active cosmetic ingredient such as Omegalight® encapsulated in a complex alginate based nano-capsule. The study demonstrates how precise concentrations can be obtained without the requirement for fastidious extraction and separation protocols prior to ATR-IR analysis. However, data mining remains a crucial aspect with particular emphasis on the preprocessing of the data that will be subjected to Partial Least Squares Regression (PLSR) analysis. Therefore, different pre-processing methods have been evaluated to investigate the relationship between corrections applied and PLSR outcomes (i.e. precision, ratio of performance to deviation (RPD) and accuracy of the analysis). Ultimately, it has been found that, against all expectations, some of the preprocessing methods do not necessarily lead to improvements in the end result, while Extended Multiplicative Scattering Correction (EMSC) is the only one which delivers satisfying results, as defined by a Root Mean Square Error (RMSEV) of 0.07% (w/w) and a RPD greater than 30 when performing analysis over the range 0.4-8.2% (w/w). Despite the presence of large amounts of additives such as glycerol and preservatives in the formulation, implementing Leave One Out Cross Validation (LOOCV) further validates the method with a RPD of 18 and relative errors for the predicted concentrations below the 5% (w/w) threshold, hence demonstrating that ATR-IR has analytical capabilities for applications in the cosmetic industry.

Confocal Raman spectroscopic imaging for in vitro monitoring of active ingredient penetration and distribution in reconstructed human epidermis model.

Topically applied active cosmetic ingredients (ACI) or active pharmaceutical ingredients (API) efficacy is directly related to their efficiency of penetration in the skin. In vitro reconstructed human epidermis surrogate models offer in vivo like skin samples for transdermal studies. Using Delipidol®, an ACI currently used in the cosmetics industry, the capabilities to deliver accurate distribution maps and penetration profiles of this molecule by means of confocal Raman spectroscopic imaging have been demonstrated. Using a non-negative constrained least squares (NCLS) approach, contribution of specific molecules can be estimated at each point of spectral maps in order to deliver semi-quantitative heat maps representing the ACI levels in the different skin layers. The concentration profiles obtained are approximately single exponential for all 3 time points evaluated, with a consistent decay constant, which is independent of the sublayer structure. Notably, however, there is no significant penetration into the lower basal layers until a critical concentration is built up, after 3 hours. Combination of Raman confocal imaging with spectral unmixing methods such as NCLS is demonstrated to be a relevant approach for in vitro biological evaluation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical active ingredients and could easily be implemented as a screening tool for industrial use.

Quantitative analysis of curcumin-loaded alginate nanocarriers in hydrogels using Raman and attenuated total reflection infrared spectroscopy.

Core-shell nanocarriers are increasingly being adapted in cosmetic and dermatological fields, aiming to provide an increased penetration of the active pharmaceutical or cosmetic ingredients (API and ACI) through the skin. In the final form, the nanocarriers (NC) are usually prepared in hydrogels, conferring desired viscous properties for topical application. Combined with the high chemical complexity of the encapsulating system itself, involving numerous ingredients to form a stable core and quantifying the NC and/or the encapsulated active without labor-intensive and destructive methods remains challenging. In this respect, the specific molecular fingerprint obtained from vibrational spectroscopy analysis could unambiguously overcome current obstacles in the development of fast and cost-effective quality control tools for NC-based products. The present study demonstrates the feasibility to deliver accurate quantification of the concentrations of curcumin (ACI)-loaded alginate nanocarriers in hydrogel matrices, coupling partial least square regression (PLSR) to infrared (IR) absorption and Raman spectroscopic analyses. With respective root mean square errors of 0.1469 ± 0.0175% w/w and 0.4462 ± 0.0631% w/w, both approaches offer acceptable precision. Further investigation of the PLSR results allowed to highlight the different selectivity of each approach, indicating only IR analysis delivers direct monitoring of the NC through the quantification of the Labrafac®, the main NC ingredient. Raman analyses are rather dominated by the contribution of the ACI which opens numerous perspectives to quantify the active molecules without interferences from the complex core-shell encapsulating systems thus positioning the technique as a powerful analytical tool for industrial screening of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Graphical abstract Quantitative analysis of encapuslated active molecules in hydrogel-based samples by means of infrared and Raman spectroscopy.

In vivo Raman Microspectroscopy: Intra- and Intersubject Variability of Stratum Corneum Spectral Markers.

BACKGROUND: In vivo Raman spectroscopy is a powerful tool for real-time analysis and in situ evaluation of tissues such as the skin. The efficiency of this technique has been widely demonstrated as a label-free method for in vivo evaluation of the skin. The aim of this study is to gather information about inter- and intra-individual variations in the spectral descriptors of water content and structure, organization of the lipid barrier and structure of proteins in the stratum corneum (SC). METHODS: In vivo SC measurements were performed on 17 female volunteers aged 20-30 years (phototypes I and II). For intra-individual variability, spectral collection was performed on 5 successive days per volunteer. Shapiro-Wilk and Cochran tests were applied to check the normality and the homoscedasticity of variances. ANOVA was then applied to evaluate intra- and intergroup variability. RESULTS: ANOVA was performed on the spectral descriptors of water content and structure, organization of the lipid barrier and secondary structure of proteins in the SC. No significant intra- and interday variability was observed for all volunteers. Despite the low value of the total relative standard deviation, a highly significant variation was observed between volunteers. CONCLUSION: Interindividual variability for Raman measurements is significant for a set of volunteers with normal nondiseased SC and close phototypes. This variability should be taken into consideration as a threshold for significant variance when working in vivo.

On the interaction of alginate-based core-shell nanocarriers with keratinocytes in vitro.

Calcium alginate nanocarriers (CaANCs) were developed as a potential tool for delivery of hydrophobic active molecules such as pharmaceutical and cosmetic active ingredients. In this study, we focused on interactions between CaANCs and keratinocytes in culture and examined toxicity, internalization and drug release. Prior to cellular interactions, cryogenic transmission electron microscopy images showed that CaANCs appear as regular, spherical and dense particles, giving evidence of the surface gelation of CaANCs. Their size, around 200nm, was stable under tested conditions (temperature, culture media, presence of serum and presence of encapsulated dye), and their toxicity on keratinocytes was very low. Flow cytometry assays showed that CaANCs are internalized into keratinocytes by endocytosis with a predominant implication of the caveolae-mediated route. Förster resonance energy transfer (FRET) demonstrated that after a 2h contact, the release of CaANC contents in the cytoplasm of keratinocytes was almost complete. The endocytosis of CaANCs by a lysosome-free pathway, and the rapid release of their contents inside keratinocytes, will allow vectorized molecules to fully exhibit their pharmacological or cosmetic activity.